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City Spotlight: Barcelona

Written by Matt Bell

Once you’ve experienced it, you’ll understand why this beautiful, ancient Mediterranean city is one of the most popular gay destinations in Europe. Give yourself a week—three days for culture, and a long weekend for getting lost in the gay nightlife.

American flies direct, but Iberia’s business class (requiring a transfer in Madrid) is the best way to bag some Z’s on the eight-hour flight. A €25 cab ride gets you to the city center; or a €1.35 25-minute ride on Renfe, the (rather nice) state-owned passenger train.

Most people head directly to La Rambla, a wide street full of world-class shopping and street performers. But make it snappy because, despite its popularity, it’s just the “mall” version of what lies beyond. Instead, take a cab past La Rambla and directly to the Gothic Quarter. The maze of small 13th century streets dotted with adorable cafés and craft stores will tell you you’re not in Kansas anymore. From there, wander over (or cab it, you’ll need to save your calves for all-night dancing later) to La Ribera—more medieval streets and home of the Picasso Museum boasting the world’s best collection of the artist’s work.

Get a good night’s rest, because these first few nights may be the only ones you actually sleep through. Check out some of the “foodie” restaurants before the weekend crowds. Spend the next day checking out the glorious Gaudi architecture. Skip (or pass by) the Sagrada Familia; it will be stunning in 2026 when they’re done restoring it. But do check out Parc Guëll—one of the world’s most beautiful parks, full of Gaudí’s best works, including his home with furniture he designed. Also of note: La Pedrera, a Gaudí-designed mansion; and Palau Guëll, the only building Gaudí finished himself, just off La Rambla.

With all that brainy stuff out of the way, walk down La Rambla, until you hit Gran Via. Turn left, and you’re in the Eixample—the 19th century part of town that also includes the Gaixample, the gayborhood. Along the way, you can shop, eat and cruise to your heart’s content.

After all that sightseeing, you’re ready for sunbathing and boy watching. There are two gay beaches—unfortunately, on opposite poles of the city. San Sebastian is located south, and Mar Bella Beach north. Mar Bella Beach is clothing optional, but this is one nude beach where you won’t mind being a lookie lou. (Exhibit A: The hot bartender from the club DBoy and his generous endowment frolicking in the public shower.) Mar Bella is a €10 to €13 cab ride from the city center, but is well worth it. Return cabs are easy to find. During the week, the beach fills up after 5 p.m. and stays that way until after sunset. And every Sunday there’s a beach party.

Now you’re ready to sample the local nightlife—once you start, it’s nearly impossible to stop. Dinner, which starts at 9 p.m. and take no less than two hours (no matter how hard you try) turns into the bar scene, which occurs from midnight to 3 a.m. Clubs get going at 3 a.m. and end between 6 and 7 a.m. Throw in after-hours, 6 a.m. till midday, and siesta—the daily work break from 2 to 5 p.m.—starts to sound a lot like disco nap time. Try sleeping until 5 p.m., then taking it to the beach to wake up with a cocktail. The Gaixample’s nightlife revolves around Casanova Street—but is by no means confined there. If you only stick to this area, you’ll miss some of the best clubs, like DBoy and Martin’s.

WHERE TO STAY

Axel Hotel Barcelona
Aribau, 33
+34 93 323 93 93
axelhotels.com

This classic, chic gay hotel located in the heart of the Gaixample with sleek soundproofed rooms (ahem!), free wi-fi, a gay bar and restaurant, and a good-looking clientele is hands down the best pick if you’re coming to Barcelona to party.

Hotel California
Rauric, 14
+34 93 317 77 66
hotelcaliforniabcn.com

It might not be the most elegant, but it’s gay and you’ll love staying in the heart of the Gothic Quarter. Besides, who knows what you’ll pick up on the ten-minute walk to the Gaixample?

Me Hotel
Pere IV, 272-286
+34 93 367 20 50
me-barcelona.com
Barcelona boys are beautiful during the day, too! Only a 7-minute walk to Mar Bella Beach and a €10 cab ride to the Gaixample. Me is sexy, has top-notch amenities including free wi-fi and a very courteous staff.

Barcelona Boutique Gay Guest House
Casanova
+34 93 368 40 10
barcelonaboutique.com

It might not be as sexy as the Axel, but it’s located in the heart of the Gaixample, gay owned and operated, and a lot cheaper!

WHERE TO EAT

Castro Restaurante
Casanova, 85
+34 93 323 67 84

A well-known gay restaurant with an excellent Mediterranean menu.

Kitchen by Axel
Aribau, 33
+34 93 323 93 93
axelhotels.com

With a customizable pasos menu (which is actually Brazilian) and a bubbling gay scene, it’s a great place to start the night.

dDivine
Balmes, 24
+34 93 317 22 48
dDivine.com

Open for only five years, this drag show café-restaurant is already legendary.

Aquarella Music Restaurant
Gran Via, 572
+34 93 452 14 52
aquarella.es
The 9 p.m. dinner comes with a sensational musical show that takes you on a journey through Catalonian history. The 10:45 p.m. show is for drinks only.

Tafino
Consell de Cent, 193
+34 93 451 04 81

Want to get intimate on a date? Quiet, ambient and savory fusion cuisine.

Mex & Cal
Aribau, 50
+34 93 323 43 16
mexcal.es

It may seem strange to come to Barcelona to have Mexican food, but trust us, gay owner José Luis does it right.

Can Majó
Almirall Aixada, 23
+34 93 221 54 55
canmajo.es

Just off Barceloneta Beach, with some of the best seafood and rice dishes in town.

El Bierzo a Tope
Diputacio, 159
+34 93 453 70 45
elbierzoatope.com

Specializing in typical Spanish cuisine—go to this “typical” Spanish restaurant for something new?

Can Pineda
Calle Sant Joan de Malta, 55
+34 93 308 30 81
canpineda.com

The long wait is worth it at this local fave specializing in authentic Spanish cuisine. Try their namesake wine.

Inopia
Tamarit, 104
+34 93 424 52 31
barinopia.com

Tapas to die for.

WHERE TO DRINK

Axel Sky Bar
Aribau, 33
+34 93 323 93 93
axelhotels.com

Chill House music and the warm breeze make this mixed gay bar an excellent low-key but upscale start to the night.

Bacon Bear Bar
Casanova, 64

New bear bar that’s popular for Thursday happy hour from 7-10 p.m.

El Cangrejo
Villaroel, 86

Small bar that seems to have almost every kind of person imaginable and crazy Spanish pop music.

Bear Factory
Passatge de Domingo, 3

Rub up against a bear on their dance floor or in the dark room. Woof!

Dacksy
Consell de Cent, 247

A trendy bar with local scenesters, muscle boys and cute young types.

New Chaps
Diagonal, 365
+34 93 215 53 65
newchaps.com

The classic bear bar with two floors and some dark corners.

G Café
Muntaner, 24

An evening lounge that turns into a nighttime video bar.

Atame
Consell de Cent, 257

Popular Spanish pop bar populated with drunk locals and their fave fag hags.

Dietrich
Consell de Cent, 255

Plenty of guidebooks call this a great place to go. It was … once, which is sad because it’s a great space, has a smoke-free area and great music.

Strass
Consell de Cent, 245
strassbcn.com

Lively crowd with drag shows and such.
Plata Bar
Consell de Cent, 233

Comfy bar opened up to the street, perfect for cruising pedestrians.

Sweet Café & Zeltas
Casanova, 75
zeltas.net

The most popular place to start the night off, plus it’s a nice size. Sweet Café is more subdued while Zeltas has a dance floor.

Museum
Sepulveda, 178

The newest spot on the scene; the museum-like setting is kitsch, has a dance floor. Fridays and Saturdays.

WHERE TO DANCE

Metro
Sepulveda, 185
metrodiscobcn.com

The tried-and-true classic gay club of Barcelona. Open every night with a room for dance music and another with pop and disco. Friday nights are best.

Salvation @ DBoy
Ronda San Pere, 19-21

State-of-the-art walls and floors made of video screens; sexy boys; and two rooms of dance music make this Friday and Saturday night party a must.

Martin’s
Passeig de Gracia, 130
martins-disco.com

Popular Saturday nightclub with hirsute crowd and the largest dark room in town. Dress like a man or be turned away. A €12 cover gets you a drink.

Discotheque
Tarragona, 141
discotheque.info

Closed down for years, this classic Barcelona club is back and draws a mixed crowd of serious dance music lovers, but it is a little out of the way.

Arena Madre
Balmes, 32
arenadisco.com
Open every night of the week, it’s a staple dance club on the scene. Entrance here also gets you into the sister clubs Arena Classic (Diputacio, 233) and Arena Dandy (Gran Via, 593), which are more mixed.

Tatu
Cai Celi, 7
bartatu.es

Taxi here for a journey back in time at this disco-bear club. Thursday to Sunday.

Souvenir
Noi de Sucre, 71
matineegroup.com

Don’t get here until 6 a.m., and stay till well after the sun comes up at this legendary after-hours club that the whole city shows up to. Saturdays and Sundays (really: Fridays and Saturdays)

WHERE TO PARTY

Gay Day @ Space
Tarragona, 141-147
July—September
matineegroup.com

Not-to-be-missed gay party by the Matinee group every Sunday from July to September.

Only Men’s Party @ Martin’s
Passeig de Gracia, 130

Leave the gal pals and tranny friends at home for this popular men’s-only party taking place on the first Saturday of the month.

Barcelona’s Bear Festival
April
bearcelona.org

One of the most popular bear events in Europe, this event occurs yearly in April.

Gay Pride
June
pridebarcelona.org

2009 marked the first parade in Barcelona, which had the bonus of making the festival all the more wild. The parade starts at 5 p.m., ends at 8 p.m. and then picks up with a gigantic street party at 10 p.m. in the beautiful Avinguda de la Maria Cristina. Check the website for specific events.

Circuit Festival
August
circuitfestival.net
Nine days of the world’s hottest men, best DJs and most spectacular venues including a giant water park and Barcelona’s Olympic Stadium. Can you survive?

Great Ball of Solidarity
December
stopaids.org
Each year, to coincide with World AIDS Day, on Dec. 1, Stop AIDS and poz guys organize El Gran Baile de Solidaridad con los Gays Seropositivos. The Ball is one of the most important events celebrated in Barcelona to commemorate this day.

WHERE TO GET OFF

Boyberry
Calabria, 96
boyberry.com

Sauna Buenos Aires
Urgell, 114
saunabuenosairesbcn.com

Sauna Casanova
Casanova, 57
grupopases.com

Sauna Thermas
Diputacio, 46
grupopases.com

Berlin Dark
Passatge de Prunera, 18

La Base
Casanova, 201

WHERE TO SHOP

Note: The first week in July, the entire country pretty much goes on sale. It’s not unusual to see designer brands for up to 70% off.

Ritual
Muntaner, 58
+34 93 451 91 68

Designer boutique.

DGM
Casanova, 74
+34 93 451 84 08
dgm.es

Designer streetwear with labels like Schott, Replay and Von Dutch.

ES4U
Casanova, 56
+34 93 452 47 75
escollection.es

Gayola store featuring underwear, tank tops and other slutwear.

Next Level
Diputacio, 189

Italian designer boutique.

Next
Aribau, 114 - Local 3

Shoes and sneakers you can’t find Stateside.

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