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City Spotlight: San Francisco

Baghdad by the Bay: America’s Gay Mecca

Written by Steve Kleine

Baghdad-by-the-bay, Sin Francisco, the Gay Mecca, Frisco … whatever you want to call San Francisco one theme is constant: hedonism. Packed into seven square miles is a world of places to go and things to do that rivals cities ten times its size, including a world-class symphony and opera, innovative museums, some of the world’s best restaurants, and an intense dance scene. And then, of course, there’s the gayborhood to end all gayborhoods, the Castro.

Surprisingly, the Castro was not the first neighborhood to have a high population of gay men and lesbians. Polk Street, still (in)famous for its leather and tranny scene, was where it started. There are a few versions of how the Castro became “the” gay neighborhood. Some say the U.S. military offloaded thousands of gay servicemen during World War II after being discharged for homosexuality. Others say it was the rise of the gay rights movement and the increased level of acceptance brought on by the hippies’ Summer of Love in 1968 in nearby Haight-Ashbury. Still others say that people with progressive attitudes grew weary of the drug use and crime in the Haight and moved to the Castro as a safer alternative. In any event, gay men replaced Scandinavian immigrants, and the Castro has become a beacon of the gay rights movement.

Some say that the area has become too commercial over the years (yes, there is a Pottery Barn). But the majority of businesses still have a gay focus. The restaurants are full of hot gay boys. And day or night one will find every type of gay bar packed to the rafters.

The other area no gay boy should miss is Folsom, the home of the city’s leather community. On this strip, formerly a run-down industrial area south of Market, you will find an array of leather bars, from the Eagle to the Powerhouse.

Beyond the gay scene, San Francisco is made up of unique neighborhoods. Classy shopping and dining can be found in the Filmore. Savor ethnic cuisine in Chinatown, Japantown and North Beach (Italian). Union Square rivals Fifth Avenue for upscale shops. The vistas from Nob Hill, Russian Hill, Telegraph Hill and Twin Peaks (right above the Castro) are breathtaking.

At the end of the day, all of San Francisco seems to be partying. The Folsom Street Fair attracts over 400,000 leather enthusiasts in late September. Halloween in the Castro got so big they had to close it down; now, the weekend before Halloween is when the gay boys celebrate. They leave the craziness of the actual night to the straights. There’s the Castro Street Fair and the SF Pride Festival. One of the biggest Prides in the world and the second largest exhibition in California, SF Pride brings party boys from around the world for a weeklong string of festivities and doesn’t end until days after the last float sails by.

While many cities are seeing their club scene wither and die, San Francisco’s bars and clubs are going stronger than ever, with a wide array of events and venues. With the dynamic combination of sexual and ethnic diversity, culture, fine dining, fascinating neighborhoods and a party scene that has something for anyone, San Francisco offers up an action-packed vacation that will satisfy your mind, body and soul.

WHERE TO EAT

Castro & Environs

Catch
2362 Market St.
415-431-5000
http://www.catchsf.com

Catch is a fun spot that serves affordable, fresh seafood and “landfare” in a comfortable and cozy atmosphere. Many boys sit at the bar and slurp down mussels and oysters with their martinis.

Lime
2247 Market St
415-621-5256
http://www.lime-sf.com

Lime is usually jammed packed with trendy boys enjoying great music, delicious drinks and fresh flavors. The place has a super high energy level.

2223
2223 Market St.
415-431-0692
http://www.2223restaurant.com

American, Asian and Mediterranean flavors in a cozy, comfy space. 2223 is the address to see and be seen, especially for brunch.

Poesia
4072 18th St.
415-252-9325
http://www.poesiasf.com

Authentic Italian food with hand-made pastas and traditional ingredients.

Café Flore
2298 Market St.
415-621-8579
http://www.cafeflore.com

Sometimes dubbed “Café Whore,” this Castro landmark has been a top cruising spot since 1973. It is open to the street so you’ll have a front row seat to watch the eclectic blend of humanity parade by. The menu covers a lot of ground from Fish Tacos to Flank Steak with Mint Chimichurri.

Chow
215 Church St.
415-552-2469
http://www.chowfoodbar.com

Chow serves healthy, high-quality comfort food at affordable prices with warm, friendly service. The goal is a civil food system that is good, clean, organic, and fair. Expect a crowd—the trendy Pilsner bar is next door while you wait for your table.

Zuni
1658 Market St.
415-552-2522
http://www.zunicafe.com

Zuni is considered one of the truly unique restaurants in SF. Inspired by seasonal organic ingredients, the menu changes daily. Nearly all of the produce, meat, and fish are farmed or harvested in a sustainable manner. It has been drawing a mixed crowd of trendy locals since 1979.

High End

Nopa
560 Divisadero St.
415-864-8643
http://www.nopasf.com

Nopa serves urban rustic food and specializes in organic wood-fired cuisine. They serve simple food created with seasonal ingredients sourced from local purveyors.

Slanted Door
1 Ferry Building #3
415-861-8032
http://www.slanteddoor.com

This über-popular and hip modern Vietnamese restaurant showcases the abundance of produce as well as ecologically farmed meat, game and poultry from local farms. It has a great view of the Bay. Make reservations a week in advance.

Boulevard
One Mission St.
415-543-6084
http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com

Chef Nancy Oaks delivers hearty, flavorful cuisine with American regional flavors combined with a French-influenced style. One of the most popular and best-reviewed restaurants in town.

Absinthe
398 Hayes St.
415-551-1590
http://www.absinthe.com

Experiencing a revival based on Chef Jamie Lauren's performance on Top Chef, Absinthe has an eclectic menu combining “brasserie cuisine” with French, Med and Contemporary. The domed interior is way cool.

Prana@Temple
540 Howard St.
415-278-0495
http://www.pranasf.com

This Indian restaurant is part of Temple, a state-of-the-art club with three separate spaces and some of the best lighting and sound in the Bay Area. They mostly host straight events, but the food is out of this world.

Super High-End Hot Spots

Michael Mina
335 Powell St.
415-397-9222
http://www.michaelmina.net

This top San Francisco restaurant features the culinary talent of superstar chef Michael Mina. Set in the stunning lobby of the historic Westin St. Francis, this decadent restaurant showcases spectacular American cuisine in a timeless, naturally elegant setting.

Fifth Floor
12 Fourth St.
415-348-1555
http://www.fifthfloorrestaurant.com

With an amazing combination of traditional French cuisine with a modern flair, this spot has been blowing even the most jaded foodie away since it opened.

Restaurant Gary Danko
800 North Point St.
415-749-2060
http://www.garydanko.com

One of the most highly awarded restaurants in town, Gary Danko offers his vision of modern cuisine. Make reservations early!

WHERE TO STAY

Castro

Parker Guest House
520 Church St.
888-520-7275
http://www.parkerguesthouse.com

The 21 rooms are housed in a handsome 1909 Edwardian mini-mansion.

Inn on Castro
321 Castro St.
415-861-0321
http://www.innoncastro.com

Eight rooms (one with shared bath) in a restored Edwardian building. The living room has a fireplace. Rates include full breakfast in the dining room and evening brandy.

24 Henry and Village House
24 Henry St.
800-900-5686
http://www.24henry.com

Both guesthouses are friendly, inexpensive, yet elegant B&Bs.
Beck’s Motor Lodge
2222 Market St.
800-227-4360
http://www.becksmotorlodgesf.com

You'll pay a premium for being so near Market and Castro—you can’t ask for a better location. At night, don’t be surprised to see a few of the guest room doors “slightly ajar.”

Black Stallion Inn
635 Castro St.
415-863-0131

As the name implies, a sexually focused guesthouse.

North Side

W
181 Third St.
415-777-5300
http://www.starwoodhotels.com

A hotspot built from the ground up as a W—fierce!

Intercontinental SOMA
888 Howard St.
888-811-4273
http://www.intercontinentalsanfrancisco.com

This stunning, brand spanking new hotel is just a few blocks away from the bars of Folsom, giving you easy access to all the spanking you could desire. As a bonus, you can “recover” from your leather outing in the luxury of the impressive spa.

San Francisco Marriott
55 Fourth St.
415-896-1600
http://www.sfmarriott.com

Large, well-appointed hotel near Moscone Convention Center that normally offers great prices via Priceline auctions.

Westin St. Francis
335 Powell St.
800-Westin-1
http://www.westinstfrancis.com

The only hotel on Union Square, the St. Francis was offering travelers the height of luxury before the earthquake.

The Fairmont
950 Mason St.
415-772-5000
http://www.fairmont.com

This legendary hostelry presents an awe-inspiring picture of historic San Francisco with amazing views.

Mark Hopkins
One Nob Hill
415-392-3434
http://www.ichotelsgroup.com

As splendid now as when it opened to great fanfare in 1926, the venerable landmark is minutes from Union Square, Chinatown and the Financial District.

WHERE TO DRINK

Midnight Sun
4067 18th St.
415-861-4186
http://www.midnightsunsf.com

One of the first video bars in the world is still packing in the hot boys 30 years later. Legendary 2-for-1 happy hour has led to many an adventurous night.

Badlands
4121 Eighteenth St.
415-626-9320
http://www.sfbadlands.com

Once a revered, ultra cruisey hole in the wall, Badlands has morphed into an upscale video/dance bar that is one of the hottest spots for the younger set to drink, dance and carry on.
The Lookout
3600 Sixteenth St.
415-431-0306
http://www.lookoutsf.com

The Lookout, formally the Metro, is a second-story Castro hotspot that gives those lucky enough to get a balcony seat a prime view to watch the show parade up and down Market St. The spot also serves pizza/sandwiches and other food that goes well with numerous cocktails.

The Bar on Church
198 Church St.
415-861-7499
http://www.thebarsf.com

Formally the Bar on Castro, this super-hip watering hole still gets the best of the best grooving to top DJs and downing the latest trendy martini.

Martuni's
4 Valencia St.
415-241-0205
martunis.ypguides.net

Just a bit down Market from the Castro, Martuni’s serves up strong drinks to better enjoy the world-class piano bar and drag performances.

440
440 Castro St.
415-621-8732
http://www.the440.com

The closest thing to a leather bar in the Castro, this place has different theme nights including Gus Presents "Frathouse," which has the youngins mingling with the daddies.

The Eagle
398 Twelfth St.
415-626-0880
http://www.sfeagle.com

The granddaddy of all leather bars, packed full of leathermen, bears, punks, skins and touristy gawkers. Sunday beer bust always has a line down the block but is worth the wait.

Lone Star Saloon
1354 Harrison St.
415-863-9999
http://www.lonestarsaloon.com

Folsom’s “bear bar” attracts a fun, friendly crowd, especially on Sunday when the crowd is more varied and not just for bears, cubs and chasers.

Powerhouse
1347 Folsom St.
415-552-8689
http://www.powerhouse-sf.com

Perhaps the most notorious of all the Folsom leather bars, the Powerhouse is the only bar with an active back room.

Eight
1151 Folsom St.
415-431-1151
http://www.clubdragonsf.com

This chic spot is a hotbed for Asians, and those who love them.

WHERE TO DANCE

H.O.M. at Infusion
124 Ellis St.
http://www.homsf.com

Monthly T-dance featuring some of the top circuit DJs. Events occur on the first Sunday of the month.

Fresh at Ruby Skye
420 Mason St.
http://www.freshsf.com

Long-running Sunday T-Dance, normally held on the last Sunday of the month, but added events for big weekends; always packed with shirtless boys grooving to big-name DJs. The normally straight space is a refurbished theater with a great balcony for people watching.

Industry at Mighty
119 Utah St.
http://www.industrysf.com

Monthly Saturday night party that brings out a nice variety of muscle boys, drag queens, twinks and even some fierce party chicks.

Gus Presents
http://www.guspresents.com

His current weekly parties include Palace on Fridays at Club Mist, Adonis on Saturdays at the awesome Club Barneveld, Paradise Sunday Tea at 1015 Folsom, The Crib (hip-hop) on Thursdays, and Frathouse (college boys) on Wednesday. Holiday weekend events include Underworld; Colossus, Saturday night; and Sanctuary on Sunday. Check the site for updates.

The Disco @ Mezzanine
444 Jessie St.
http://www.thediscosf.com

The Circuit event of Pride. This year (June 27), Paul Goodyear will lead off, with Bud Chism taking it into the morning, along with a “drag lounge” featuring a flagger stage and stage shows.

WHERE TO GET OFF

Blow Buddies
933 Harrison St.
415-777-HEAD
http://www.blowbuddies.com

The name says it all.

Steam Works
2107 Fourth St., Berkeley
510-845-8992
http://www.steamworksonline.com

This legendary bathhouse has been open 24/7/365 for decades. A recent remodel has made it one of the best in the country. Well worth the Bay Bridge traffic.

The Citadel
1277 Mission St.
415-626-1746
http://www.sfcitadel.org

While open to all types of sexual-themed events, SF Citadel is better known as the Bay area’s premier Community Dungeon Play Space. The facility is equipped with every piece of play equipment you can imagine. It is home to some of the region’s sexiest, kinkiest men and women, and the centerpiece of the San Francisco BDSM community. Always check their site before you go, so you know what type of party to expect.

WHERE TO SHOP

Union Square
Near downtown, this must-see shopping area is home to all the top brands. From Hermes to Tiffany’s you’ll find it here.

Westfield City Center
Just two blocks south of Union Square lies the largest shopping center on the West Coast, anchored by a massive Nordstrom’s.

The Ferry Building
When the Embarcadero Freeway was torn down after the last big earthquake, the city renovated this historic and scenic landmark. Besides giving access to the numerous ferries that shoot across the bay, it’s filled with unique shops large and small that celebrate food in all its forms, offering everything from artisan cheeses to the freshest of local fish.

WHAT TO SEE

Alcatraz
Worth the trip if just for the amazing views.

Cable Cars
Yes, totally touristy, but way fun to ride.
Golden Gate Bridge/Marin Headlands
No trip is complete without a walk across this historic bridge. For a great workout, keep walking up the steep road to your left for some great views from the Marin Headlands. Further on, you’ll find the trailhead to hike down to Black Sand Beach, a stunning clothing-optional spot.

Golden Gate Park
The Central Park of the West hosts numerous events, concerts and gatherings. While no longer active, walking the trails between the Windmills across from the beach will give you a taste of one of the first cruising areas in the West.

De Young Museum
Golden Gate Park
50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive
415-750-3600
http://www.famsf.org/deyoung

Founded in 1895 in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park, the de Young Museum has been an integral part of the cultural fabric of the city.

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